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Kawasaki junction box testing with a Small 9 volt battery.

 
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yorkie
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Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Posts: 1489
Location: Blue ZX9 C2 & F2 & 12B4 Altofts, west yorkshire

PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 9:19 am    Post subject: Kawasaki junction box testing with a Small 9 volt battery. Reply with quote

How to test a Kawasaki junction fuse box relays and some of the diodes that are used to trip them with a 9 volt battery, without having to open it up.

A New 9 volt battery is required so it has enough power to trip the relays and bias the diodes, but not enough power to blow anything.

Possible Relay Replacement seems ok but still needs more testing, as I want to see what voltage it will trip down to, I know a little 9volt battery will trip it so thats a good start. Search google or ebay for "HY3FF-DC12V"

Some of the junction boxes have 2 relays and we can check they both work.

You will need the diagram to show you the location of the numbered pins, and you will also be able to see what bits its checking.

You need to be in a fairly quite area so you can hear the relays tripping.

First thing to check is the starter interlock relay and diode by going between pins 11 positive (Red) and 12 negative (Black) You should hear the relay clicking over, Now reverse the wires and the relay should not be heard tripping, if you can then the diode is shorted and needs replacing, if you hear nothing reverse the wires back over again to make sure it still works.
If during the checks nothing can be heard the diode is either blown open circuit or the relay is blown or your battery is not new enough.

Second thing to check is the headlight relay if it has one and its 2 diodes, one diode is the trip diode and the other is the relay hold on diode. To start with go between pin 9 Positive (Red) and 13 negative (Black) you should hear the rally tripping, now reverse the wire and try again, if the relay still trips the diode is shorted and needs replacing, now switch back the wire and make sure the relay still works.
Now go between 8 positive (Red) and 13 negative (Black) and you should hear the relay tripping again, reverse the wires again and if the relay trips again the diode is shorted and needs replacing, switch back the wires and check the relay still works.
If during the headlight relay check the relay cannot be heard tripping at any time either both diodes are blown or the relay is blown or your battery is not new enough.

If you wanted to check the other inter lock diodes then you need to use a multimeter on the 2k Ohms range with the positive (Red) lead on pin 14 and the Negative (Black) lead on pins 12, 15 and 16 in turn. You should get a reading of about 750 Ohms, now reverse the leads and you should read open circuit on each pin. if you get open or short circuit on any test the diode needs replacing.

Good Luck.
yorkie

service manual information, but the overall diagram is all you need


starter interlock relay


headlight relay


relay only testing with the battery, you need a meter for the diodes or have the LED like I have in the pictures above



If you have a UK F2p or an American model and you have trouble with the headlights not coming on, and all the junction/fuse box checks are OK, then check this plug under the carbs it will be hiding inside a plastic plug cover, you will need the tank off to gain access.
The headlight tripping wire comes from one of the Yellow wire from here, if your using a multimeter then also disconnect from the regulator as well before doing check up to the junction fuse box.


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