Kawasaki ZX9-R Website Forum
Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: Blue ZX9 C2 & F2 & 12B4 Altofts, west yorkshire
|Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 11:45 am Post subject: So you've just bought a zx-9r now check & do these to it
|(I do update this post with more information occasionally, so it's worth check it every now and again)
So you've gone and got yourself one of the best all round performance bikes, well done . Your now thinking what things should I be checking on my bike, well I'm here to give you a few pointers on what to do first.
First thing to do, straight away if its a C model, is strip and clean the gear change footpeg hanger. This will reduce the chance of 3rd gear problems on C's and difficulty changing gear or getting neutral on all nines.
How to with pictures can be found here:- http://www.zx-9r.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22019 Doing the brake pedel at the same time would be useful.
Note, you will at some point drop the bike, whether riding, at stand still, off the sidestand, or manoeuvring the bike and hitting a fence, a wall, or garage door.
So do not have the wing mirrors to ridged. You want the mirror to move under hand pressure, likewise the knuckle joint. If these do not move fairly easily then the chances of bending the upper H bracket increases, or worse, there is a high chance of cracking the upper fairing which becomes big money. The mirror ends can be twisted tight or loose, the knuckles may need loosening a little, both will need a little lube.
Don't fit crash bung mounted here.
Second thing to do is get the bike on a paddock or Abbastand and take out the rear axle, if you have a wedge of wood under the rear tyre you'll be able to leave the wheel sat there. Now screw out completely the chain adjuster bolts and copper ease them all the way along the threads, and put a splodge in the hole where it goes. This will stop them corroding up inside the swing-arm and not allowing you to adjust the chain, with the outcome of the bolt shearing off.
This then becomes a real problem to remove what's left of the bolt, and often a replacement swing-arm is needed.
While the rear wheel is up check for free play between the rear wheel and rear sprocket. If you find some, the cush drive rubbers are shot. You can buy new ones, or glue 4 rectangular bits of push bike innertube rubber (1cm by 1.5cm ish) to the 4 back stops of where the cush drive rubbers fit. This will get rid of any slack.
Third thing to do is block the water drain holes in the air box inlets. You don't have to remove the airbox like in the picture just the airbox lid and air filter. Filling these little holes with glue will save a fortune on replacing stick coils. What happens is the water drains out of the airbox and drips between the 2 pairs of plugs, the water will then seep down the inside of the stick coils and rust the screen which expands, this then expands the outer plastic cover of the stick coil to such a point that the stick coil can not be removed from the cylinder head. Which can mean engine drop and new stick coils. Stick coils are Now 211711265 COIL-ASSY-IGNITION �104.20
Check this thread out. http://www.zx-9r.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=10363 for why you need to do it.
Spark Plugs https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9688
Standard NGK = CR9EK or ND = U27ETR. There's no point in fitting these any more.
Fit NGK Iridium CR9EIX code 3521. These are around the same price, the engine will run smoother, better acceleration, you'll probably use less fuel, and get 50k miles or more out of them.
While the airbox is off, if you removed it, check all the stick coils are all push down home, compare them to each other, and check all the electrical plugs.
Clean the air filter. If its an original one just wash it in the sink with a bit of fairy liquid, rinse it out and crush it in your hand to get the excess water out as wringing it will rip it. Spray a small amount of filter oil on it, or a good bit of WD40 if thats all you have.
While the tank is off, clean out the coolant/carb heater filter. more so when winter is approaching. Pictures are in the next thread below this one.
http://www.bikersoracle.com/zx9/forum/showpost.php? or see the next post below this one.p=25801&postcount=9
ZX-9R Float heights and air screw settings.
B's CVKD 13mm +/-2mm, Pilot air screw 1+1/2 turns out.
C's CVKD 13mm +/-2mm, Pilot air screw 2 turns out.
E's CVRD 4mm +/-2mm, Pilot air screw 1+5/8 turns out.
F's CVKD 13mm +/-2mm, Pilot air screw 2+1/2 turns out.
When these bikes get some miles on them (20+k) you may want to think about putting a 0.5mm washer under the top of the needle, this will help with low speed running.
0.5mm washers can be found in a box of 100 for about �1 from Screwfix, M3 LIGHT WASHER BZP Steel, part number SKU 17025 - 0100, They only come in boxes of 100.
Look here. http://www.zx-9r.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=31336
Get your carbs balanced, this will make smooth running in the 30mph limits easier. Then fit a +4 ignition Advancer, to make the throttle pick up a little better. Learn how to do it yourself it will pay for its self the second time you do them. http://www.bikersoracle.com/zx9/forum/showthread.php?t=2375
C & E's 110 links. For the B's add 2 more links 530 = width 9.53mm
F's 110 links 525 = width 7.85mm. Remember the front and rear sprockets are also different because of the chain width.
Kawasaki front sprockets cost a lot more, but because they have rubber link supports on each side are very much quieter, so worth the extra expense in my opinion.
To stop the chances of getting warped discs, uneven discs wear, squeals and just good maintenance, check this video clip out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qoPqN2GBdw
If your bike has the 6 pot tokio calipers check there clean and all the pistons are working. Do this once or twice a year, or more if you use it all year round in bad conditions.
INFO Your less likely to get clutch slip around 9, 10k rpm if you use good motorcycle semi synthetic oil but you can use what you want but risk clutch slip around 9 to 10k rpm. Also have 2 or 3mm of slack at the clutch lever before you feel pressure.
I only ever use Castrol power 1 semi 10W40, and never had any clutch slip.
For some time the kawasaki oil filters for the zx12 and zx9 F were the same size, which was slightly smaller than the standard size for other models, this now seems to of changed.
Part number oil filter was 16097-0004, now superseded to 16097-0008 �8, its probably been changed for a while now but if you don't use kawasaki parts you may not know.
So if you have an zx9 F or ZX12 or whatever and it had the smaller filter like in the picture below you now need the bigger one as in 303 aftermarket number and not the 204.
I always found it strange that they went for smaller filters for the zx9 F and ZX12, I thought it may be a weight saving thing but the zx12 is not a light bike and the weight saving must be minimal.
Maybe they went back to bigger filter due to engine problems maybe, oil flow or filters blocking or reduced cooling. :smt102
INFO Abbastand Bobbins
zx9 C abba stand adaptor sizes
and before anyone asks this is for the B E F and zx12. I'll say at this time I'm fairly sure the B size is the same as the E and F.
ZX9 C rear height adjustment.
Shocks and Tie Bars for your C.
C1 Shock - 325mm hole centre to hole centre
C2 Shock - 328mm hole centre to hole centre
E Shock - 338mm hole centre to hole centre
F Shock - 338mm hole centre to hole centre
ZX10 04/05 Shock - 338mm hole centre to hole centre, needs modding to fit by filing off 1mm off each of the inside of the lower mounting.
ZX12 Shock - 338mm hole centre to hole centre
Standard C2 shock axle centre to rear seat key hole = 53cm no weight on wheel or shock. (abba stand)
zx12 rear shock axle centre to rear seat key hole = 55cm, no weight on wheel or shock. (abba stand)
So it would seem that 1cm extra in the length of the shock = 2cm extra in rear seat height.
E tie bars or dog bones have 1163 on the sides (last 4 digits of the part number) and are 4mm shorter between the holes than C ones (184mm) which = 16mm extra seat height.
F tie bars are 1mm wider spacing than the C's.
I now have the E linkage (Grease niples) and and tie bars 1163 fitted (4mm closer holes) along with a F shock, finer adjustment no clicks.
So 36mm height increase or 1.4 inches, you don't really want to be going much over this or the bike will become twitchy.
Setting up a zx12 rear shock.
A shocks had click adjustments and the B's constant rotation better for fine adjustment.
A Spring 174.5 length (177mm may be better) compression top = 10 click, and Rebound bottom = 10 click, both from fully clockwise.
B Spring length 177mm (1mm or 2mm more may be better) compression top = 2 1/4 turns, rebound = 3 turns both from fully clockwise.
Check the tyre pressures are 36 front and 42 rear all zx9's, and go and burn off a tank of petrol. But first print this off below and acquire a dumpy screwdriver, 17mm ring spanner.
Cheapest performance modification you'll ever do as it could be good for 20mph everywhere. Well except for a long straight road.
Print a cheat sheet off for setting up the suspension, read it and spend an afternoon riding and fettling it with a screw driver.
I should first add its probably best to re oil the forks, and regrease all the rear suspension linkages first, as this will make a huge difference on its own.
Don't forget to reset the cap assembly before refitting.
Loosen handle bar bolts and clamp bolts then use a 27mm socket to take the bite out of it before dropping the leg out.
Your Bike Bottoms Out
Symptoms: When you brake hard into a turn or at a stoplight the front end seems to dive down or bottoms out. You accelerate hard and the front of the bike rises up and the back squats down, like a boat. Entering a turn at speed the back or front of the bike feels like it drops significantly and then becomes unstable when get back on the gas. When you hit a bump you get an extreme double bounce from the front and then the back.
Solution: You need more preload. If you notice the symptoms on the front increase the front preload, if the rear, rear preload. Do one at a time and then test it out. One out of adjustment can give the feel of both being out. When you change the preload adjustments you will also be affecting the bikes ride height, which will affect the handling. So if you stiffen the front preload and not the back, the front of your bike will raise. This will cause you to notice that the bike doesn't turn into the turns as easily as before. To correct this and keep the same rear preload adjust the rear ride height or lower the front by raising the fork tubes in the triple clamps. Adjusting the front ride height by the triple clamps can be tricky and needs to be done in very small increment, 4mm at a time or so.
Your Bike Feels Bouncy
Symptoms: It's a sport bike but it feels more like a goldwing. Your suspension is soft and comfy, but feels bouncy. When you get into the twisties the bike has a floating feeling that makes road feedback vague at high speeds. The bike seems to bend in the middle.
Solution: Increase/ stiffen the rebound damping to dissipate the increased bump forces at higher speeds. Adjust the front and the rear independently, testing the changes as you go.
Your Bike Has A Rough Feeling Ride
Symptoms: When your bike goes over rough road it doesn't seem to absorb the bumps at all. Bumps seem to hit the bike hard and quick, like a pothole. After riding for a while you�re sore because your bike isn't properly absorbing the bumps it�s passing them on to you.
Solution: You should first try and reduce rear compression damping. In bad cases your overall set up may be too stiff and you should reduce compression and rebound damping both.
Your Bike Under steers Or Feels Vague
Symptoms: When exiting a turn you start to get back on the throttle and the front tends to slid or wash out. On slightly uneven or bumpy roads the front tire feedback goes away and the returns for a second just to go away again. The steering may also feel a bit heavy.
Solution: Reduce front fork preload. The front tire is not moving down fast enough and the ride height is probably to high up front. Reducing preload will lower the front and let the forks expand quicker.
You Bikes Bars Violently Twitch Back And Forth - A Tankslapper!
Symptoms: When accelerating the front wheel shakes back and forth quickly. In extreme cases the bars can almost pull out of your hands or if you hold on tight throw you back and forth on the bike and then cause the back to skip left and right. This is a tankslapper. The bars might also twitch mid corner or feel unstable on turn in. The bike turns into corners to easily.
Solution: Increase front fork preload or lower the rear ride height. You have too much weight on the front tire.
Your Bikes Rear End Feels Wiggly, Or Breaks Loose Easily
Symptoms: You get on the brakes hard for that tight left hander and the back tire skids or wiggles side to side.
Solution: Increase front fork rebound and preload. You could also lower the rear ride height slightly.
Your Back Tire Feels Like It's Flat
Symptoms: Your rear tire feels vague or like it has a slight side-to-side wiggle, similar to a flat rear tire. You've checked your air pressure and it's not low.
Solution: Increase rear spring preload. This will stiffen the back for a more solid feel and slow down rear form rising to quickly.
Location pictures, and more here http://www.kgrant.co.uk/Per_Handling2.htm
Last edited by yorkie on Sun Sep 17, 2017 7:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: Blue ZX9 C2 & F2 & 12B4 Altofts, west yorkshire
|Posted: Sun Sep 17, 2017 7:01 pm Post subject:
|For those who can't log into bikeroracle.
Carb Icing Coolant Filter.
C's came with a 65 degree thermostat and a 70 degree stop valve. This stop valve is fitted to all 9's and probably 6's, now when the thermostat was updated to 80 degrees, this means that the stop valve is as good as always closed, which is not what you want during those freezing winter mornings on the way to work, and finding you are having carb icing problems, (its like running out of fuel) not just because the filter is blocked but the stop valve is nearly always closed.
I replaced A Stop Valve with B 8mm link pipe so the coolant is always flowing, well so long as the filter is clean. I've never had any trouble with mine after removing it, even through the summer.
A = Carb heating shut off valve.
This operates at about 70 Degrees, so if the carb mod has been done then its shut most of the time. Replace this with B.
If your bike has the Black 80 degree stop valve without the brass ring then you don't have to replace the stop valve, but according to Oblong it still runs better without it, picture added below.
B = Link pipe.
This is a 8mm hard plastic Poly Tubing Connector link pipe from your local motor parts shop, look for PEARLY "wot nots" code number PWN 525, 85p for two, fits just right.
Or Halfords Hose Connectors Straight 8mm HFX371 Cat code: 869123-0 £2.60 for 2.
C = Carb heater filter bottle
This has the filter inside and if you hold a bright light behind it you should be able to see if the filter inside is blocked up with crap, as it shows up black. Pre mod the paint particals will be inside the filter and block it up easily, post mod the paint particals will be floating in the bollte around the filter, so clean and wash out both.
D = Upper carb heater pipes
These will be present if you've have had the carb mod done properly. Post Mod.
E = Coolant temperature takeoff point.
This blue wire on the back of No 1 cylinder feeds the temperature gauge in the clocks.
F = Empty Carb heater filter bottle.
Not very big but has a narrow end and a wide end.
G = Coolant filter.
This blocks up very easily, so should be check often. It fits in the wide end of the bottle, but can slide up into the fat black pipe that attachés to the bottle, if this happens then cut 1 cm off the fat black pipe.
This was my C2 but Ebo's filter picture. Cheers.
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